Paris, like most international cities, has its share of tourist traps. In places like the famous Montmartre, it can be hard to find a restaurant that provides the elusive combination of great food and good service at an affordable price. If you’re lucky enough to find a local who can recommend a good spot, he or she is likely to direct you to the nearest hole in the wall, which may seem daunting if you’re not the adventurous type.
In the case of the aptly named Le Trou dans le Mur, there’s nothing to fear. This local watering hole may be found in the back of La Cave des Abbesses, a small wine shop just down the road from Abbesses metro station in Paris’ 18th arrondissement. One of three boutiques run by the family-owned Caves Bourdin since 1962, the Montmartre location serves a vibrant yet quiet area which is just far enough away from the Sacré-Coeur basilica, Pigalle, and the Moulin Rouge to go unnoticed by the average tourist.
Even if you did decide to poke your nose into the shop to browse the vast selection of wines, you’d probably dismiss the narrow door at the very back as a staff-only area. In fact, this is where the locals go for l’apéro — a bit of wine with cheese and other accompaniments — and to enjoy some laid-back conversation.
Although the name bar à vins, or “wine bar,” is a bit far-fetched for a cluster of tables crammed together in a tiny room, Le Trou dans le Mur offers patrons a wide selection of meats and cheeses with which to sample the large collection of wines on offer in the store. You can choose bottles from both large producers and small, independent wineries, all at reasonable prices.
My friend and I ordered a tasting plate of blue cheese, chèvre (goat’s cheese), and a harder, stronger variety that I can’t name, which was topped with a handful of walnuts. We also enjoyed a delightfully silky foie gras with fig jam and ate our fill of fresh baguette, which kept coming in baskets as long as we needed it.
Provided you’re in good company, you won’t mind Le Trou’s drab décor and meagre table settings; this place isn’t the Ritz, and it doesn’t pretend to be. The staff knows the wines and makes great recommendations, and service is efficient, if a bit hands-off. Of course, that’s the way it should be when you’re lingering over a bottle of good wine and relaxing with friends.
You can’t hang around indefinitely, though, as the bar closes at 10:30 p.m. It opens at 5 p.m. from Tuesday to Friday, and at noon on weekends, although you should arrive before the wine shop closes at 9:30 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays to gain entry.
If you’re looking for unpretentious dining in Montmartre, you can’t go wrong with Le Trou dans le Mur. The next time you’re in the mood for simple nosh at a good price during your travels, keep your eyes peeled. You never know what you may be missing.
Le Trou dans le Mur
Inside La Cave des Abbesses
43 rue des Abbesses
75018 Paris
France
www.cavesbourdin.fr